-same principle, any studio space.
lighting set up: flatwork (three dimensional objects a bit different)
-even lighting, couple of lights same brightness. same distance from work. as long as they’re covering. even area of light in centre. bit hard in daylight/window. two basically how many u need. tunsten lights. very similar to domestic lightbulbs but more powerful. warm yellowish cast. can make adjustment in camera, but also led lights, =daylight balance. observatory has fleurescent lights. no other lights on, only two lamps.
-camera from loanstore (camera lives in observatory) + tripod. don’t want to be holding camera. 50 mil prime lens, always leave without zoom... 50
-set camera up. depending on size of subject. need distance if big painting. if too close, distortion but also can correct that afterwards. tiny border around in the distance. push back as far as possible. match that angle on camera (how it’s hanging off the wall, tip camera up. And adjust height)
-canon cameras, canon software from website and connect.
-overexposed.. three things. ISO (light sensitivity, low light = more sensitive = low number, usually best but also longer shutter speed, but not a problem because on tripod), aperture (f number, right in middle, 8-11) setting. preset. shutter speed (adjust until show at 0..) f11.. 100 ISO.. half a sec. Too bright, go faster shutter speed, to quarter of second. can adjust afterwards.
-beam and shadow: will feel like a three dimensional painting/object. flatness of surface. the lighting is flat.
-if shiny.. reflective, light not behind camera anyway. to the side. sometimes doesn’t work, if wanted to reduce, diffuse the light even more. rather than direct light, indirect light. softer. with tracing paper (?) or to bounce the light off wall. but also taken away a glossy shine. Now darker, change shutter speed to longer. to half second, same as before. but much softer shadows.
-sometimes choose own setting and higher ISO number. if choose 6400... much more sensitive to light = exposed. would want to go faster shutter speed, to 125th of second, but a lot of noise. that’s why you choose 100...
-glazed work, shiny.. reflects light and camera. (use black curtain with hole for camera) want to show glaze? position of light, moving it around, but also camera.
-flat work without backing.. lean on longer pins, can lean the other way (horizontal) but not when painting is very textured because shadows will fall different. if stand directly behind camera. zoom in to check if focused. just change focus.
-stand directly behind the painting and move camera to that place.
-taking picture on software, can set two second delay so move away from tripod and then it will take the picture.